Earlier today About three weeks ago, I found myself down here. I browsed the booths. Squids are all the rage these days; squid pictures drawn on thin, witty tee shirts with sarcastic sayings. Birds are cool too (silhouettes of birds); so too are owls as well as black and white drawings of leafless birch trees. Oh, and rebellious dolls–ugly dolls with one tooth and one eye–they are ‘in’ as well.
I was only good for about 30 minutes of that and ended up on the outskirts of the grand Independent festival of Capitalism–out looking at the wide expanse that is the Delaware River on some sort of promenade where a bearded drunken man with red fingers and dried cuticles swatted at invisible flies in the sky. I stared at the river and caught sight of a little rubber dinghy; it was making circles about 40 yards out. Three men wearing blue dungarees were in it; they looked like kids. I shielded my eyes from the sun. What were they carrying? Machine guns?
Indeed.
The drunk man swatted his way closer to me, but I paid no attention to him.
The boat circled out of my field of vision. I walked closer to the river to see where it was going. It zoomed up alongside a hulk of a ship: a naval vessel, painted Battleship gray with large chains spewing out of it. It resembled a marionette. The kids in the dinghy waved to another kid who was up on the ship’s forecastle. That kid was sitting behind twin .50 caliber machine guns, manning them diligently like Doris “Dorie” Miller did on December 7th, 1941.
“Hi Chuck!”
“Heya Mike!”
They yelled that kind of stuff.
Turns out, the ship, a frigate, the USS Taylor, was docked in Philadelphia for the weekend. The crew was giving free tours. I decided to become independent of the Independent Craft Bazaar and so I decided to check it out. A disinterested Jamaican-American Seaman stood outside a hastily constructed metal detector. He played with a confiscated Buck knife in his hands while he leaned against a card table with a delaminated top.
“Ya can’t pass thru here till, um, till, an escort shows up; we only got three escorts today.”
A crowd of tourists formed behind the Jamaican-American Seaman.
We were in the front. The Seaman tried to make small talk with me about the Phillies and the Marlins; about Utley and McGonigle and Shrebek and Gerney and the save and the out at third and the extra inning where the bases were loaded and Coach Halston walked to the mound and can you believe that? Me being a bit out of the loop when it comes to following franchise sports teams, I agreed: “Um, I can’t!”
One of the tourists behind me wore a red and gold Semper Fi Marines hat. He had a Bluetooth stuck in his ear and was talking to someone while he waited. It looked as if he was talking to himself.
A few sailors returning from their leave with pressed laundry slung over their shoulders walked past us and up, onto their ship. They slapped a baseball cap on a little kid as they walked by. The cap was a USS Taylor cap with scrambled eggs on the bill and an embroidered picture of the very ship in front of me.
“Here ya go, kid.” one of the sailors said, sounding John Wayne-esque.
“I don’t want one!”
The sailor walked off surprised at the kid’s reaction. The kid’s mother insisted that the kid wear the hat for patriotic purposes.
“I don’t want one!” it repeated, pulling at the hat.
After about 30 minutes, an officer arrived. Compared to the lowly Jamaican-American seaman, he was royalty. He was a dandy; he was the bourgeoise of the ship. He wore all white; even his shoes were white. He reminded me of Richard Crenna’s character in that epic film The Sand Pebbles
“I’m Ensign Johnson,” he said crisply. It was Sunday; I was amazed how happy he seemed–giving us civilians tours on his day off.
He led us up onto the ship. He started the tour by telling us that the keel for the USS Taylor was laid at the Bath Iron Works in 1983: during the Reagan years, when we flexed our muscle and fought the red tide; sending whence it came–all the way back to the dollar store, into the outstretched arms of the Russian mafia and the Gazprom oil speculators.
“This way, sir,” Ensign Johnson said to me. For some reason, I was in the lead of the group. We went out to the Taylor’s bow first. The frigate’s missile system had been disabled; its cap was welded shut.
“Why?” I asked.
“We are on a purely defensive mission now–no Red Navy to fight these days. No: we only search ships and interdict drugs.”
Then we passed through the crew’s cabins. A few sailors were sitting on a bench outside their cabins. One chunky man read an anime magazine; another looked over his shoulder. It was tight in there; I felt like I was intruding on their space–a tourist where I didn’t belong.
“This way, sir.”
We jumped through portholes.
We then went up a welded ladder onto the bridge. A sailor was watching the radar scope. The little dinghy patrolling in front of the frigate made a small green blip on it; an even smaller blip was the pack of jet skis that appeared suddenly. The dinghy made a beeline to the jetskis, intercepting them immediately. The kids holding AR-14s flexed their muscles. We could see the drama unfold up there on the bridge. I could see the kids mouthing to the drunk guys on the jetskis to back off–that these waters were off limits. The jetskis obliged and zoomed off, making angry rooster tails behind them.
Ensign Johnson led us next to the aft part of the ship. “These ladies and gentlemen are twin mounted .50 caliber machine guns,” he said slapping his hands on them possessively.
“Ma deuce,” I said.
“Ma deuce,” Ensign Johnson echoed.
“That round will rip a man’s arm clean off,” the man with the Semper Fi hat and bluetooth said slapping his hands together as if he’d squashed a bug.
“Right sir. The Geneva Convention prohibits us from firing these at a human body,” said the Ensign.
‘Right,’ I thought.
“This ladies and gentlemen is the Phalanx,” Ensign Johnson said pointing up at a large, conical weapon.
“Wow,” a stary-eyed kid; a boy scout; an idealist mumbled under his breath.
“It’s essentially a 20mm M61 Vulcan Gatling Gun; it fires 4500 rounds a minute.”
“Wow”
“That thing will rip a man in two”
“In two? It’ll shred a man”
“We don’t fire it at people, sir,” the Ensign assured us again. “It’s purely a defensive weapon; we have removed all offensive weapons off this vessel; we only search and do drug interdictions. Our mission has changed, you see.”
“What do you search for on the ships?”
Ensign Johnson: “We don’t really search outright; we just board the vessels and then ask if we can search; we err on the side of being friendly; it helps to be friendly when you are boarding ships–especially in the Persian Gulf.”
“I see.”
“This way, folks.”
He led us to the aft of the aft. A helicopter bay was there; it had been turned into a gym. A large black sailor held a 45-pound plate in his hands and squatted–grasping and lifting it over his head as if he were Hercules strangling Hera’s two snakes.
“This bay can hold one SH-60, but we’ve turned it into a gym.”
“What about the other bay? What do you use that for?”
“It’s vacant.”
“Can it hold an SH-60?”
“Yes, but we don’t get them that often.”
“What happens if two SH-60s have to land at the same time?”
“We move the gym.”
“Where?”
“This way, folks.”
The black sailor grunted and placed the heavy plate down. Another sailor did jumping jacks; a third did crunches.
Ensign Johnson looked at his watch. “That folks concludes the tour of the USS Taylor,” he said, motioning us off the ship by extending a rigid, knife blade-like hand in front of us.
We followed orders and promptly disembarked, thanking him for his service.
We passed the disinterested Jamaican Seaman at the metal detector (He waved lazily at us using that confiscated Buck knife.) and reentered the Indie craft festival with the squids and the birds and the like-minded people with the earlobe spacers and the tribal tattoos.
I think I spent the rest of the afternoon bellied up at this really cool place.
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